1. What thickness of vinyl siding is being quoted? What is the width and type of reveal?
Vinyl siding comes in thicknesses of vinyl ranging from .038” to .50” for lap (clapboard), dutchlap, vertical board and batten, and beaded. The reveals range for clapboard and dutch lap from 4-7” depending on the manufacturer. Vinyl board and batten usually has max widths at 7” wide due to warping issues. When it comes to vinyl shake/shingle options, these are thicker in the .080” - .090” range. The thinner the vinyl, the more likely it is to warp, crack, and pop out of laps due to the thinner locking mechanisms. The thicker the vinyl, the more durable and the less likely it is to warp. The wider the reveals, the more luxury it looks. For reference, a 7” wide vinyl lap siding with a thickness of .046” or greater would give a similar look from the road as a wood plank siding. Vinyl siding less than .046” is more likely to warp and crack. It is recommended, in the South Carolina climate, to install nothing less than .046” vinyl siding.
2. What trim package is being quoted? J-Channel, Lineals, or Aluminum Capping? What is the width of the trim package being quoted
Vinyl siding trim packages consist of:
J-Channel: 5/8” or 3/4” pocketed trim. It is the entry level trim required for vinyl siding and can tend to look a bit cheap.
Aluminum Capping: Field bent aluminum can be used to cap around window/door/opening trims. Therefore, whatever the thickness of existing wood trim is present, would be the thickness of the aluminum. This can also provide a better look but still requires a j-channel for the siding to slide in to.
Lineals: Lineals are pocketed trim pieces ranging from 2-4” thick. Lineals provide a more luxury look and eliminate the need for j-channel making it a more aesthetic option for homeowners and replicate the look of James Hardie, wood, or composite options. Lineals are the most expensive option but give the most luxury look when it comes to vinyl.
3. What is the manufacturer’s warranty and when does the proration period begin? Any fine print details I should be aware of in the manufacturer warranty language that could nullify the warranty?
Different vinyl manufacturers have different warranties and fine prints regarding exclusions to the warranties. Some manufacturers have proration periods with certain lengths of time making them slightly misleading. When it comes to the fine print exclusions in the warranties, it is crucial to thoroughly read the warranty from front to back to make sure you are protected in the case the product prematurely fails or fades. If the product is not installed EXACTLY to manufacturer and local building code specifications, the manufacturer will have a way out of the warranty by blaming the contractor’s install on the products premature failure. Therefore, it is crucial to ask your potential contractor these installation related questions to ensure they know exactly how to install the product.
4. When installing the vinyl siding, how much space should be allowed behind the trim channels for expansion and contraction of the siding? What about the accessories and starter strips?
Vinyl siding requires a ¼” expansion and contraction cut to ensure the siding can move with temperature changes. With the channels having minimum face thicknesses of 5/8”, the siding will never pop out of the trim as long as it is cut at the proper ¼”. It is crucial to ask these questions because anything less or greater than a ¼” expansion or contraction cut could lead to siding buckling or popping out of the channeled trim. Starter strips, outside/inside corner posts, and nail flanges when j-channels meet all require this cut as well.
5. When nailing the siding, is it okay to fasten to the substrate or is fastening to studs required? When fastening, how far should the nail penetrate?
When fastening vinyl siding, it is crucial to fasten to the studs in the wall. The siding SHOULD NOT be fastened to the wall sheathing solely. Wall studs are typically 16” on center and the nails must penetrate the siding nail flange, substrates, and into the studs no less than ¾”. If the nails are not long enough to penetrate the studs at least ¾”, the siding is more susceptible to blowing off in wind storms and manufacturers would then have a way out of the warranty.
6. When fastening the siding, how much space should be left between the nail head and the nail flange? Why is this?
It is crucial that 1/32nd of an inch, or the thickness of a dime, is left between the nail head and the nail flange on all vinyl siding panels, corners, accessories, starter strips, j-channels, and lineals. Due to vinyl expanding and contracting with temperature changes, it needs to have freedom to move. This is the biggest mistake crews make when installing vinyl siding. If vinyl is nailed too tight, it will cause buckling and failure of the panel, ultimately nullifying the manufacturer’s warranty.
7. When installing the vinyl corners, how much space, if any, should be left between the soffit and the corner post? How much should the corner post sit below the bottom of the starter strip?
There should be a ¼” space between the soffit and the top of the corner post to allow for expansion and contraction of the corner. The corner should sit ¾” below the bottom of the starter strip to allow for proper water drainage.
8. How do you install the siding below the windows and under the eaves where the wall meets the soffit? Is there anything specific that needs to be done in these areas?
Due to the siding panels being cut at these areas, they do not have a nail flange and therefore require a “utility” trim piece that is required and installed inside the j-channel at these areas. After installing the utility trim, prior to installing the siding at these areas, a snap lock tool is required to imprint on the siding panel so that it locks into the utility trim. This gives the panel rigidity, creating a stronger lock at these areas. If this is not done, the siding will come loose with winds in these areas. The panels need to be cut ¼” short at these areas to allow for expansion and contraction.
9. When installing the j-channel horizontally, what is required to make sure the water doesn’t sit in the channel?
Anytime J-channel is installed horizontally, above transitions, at elevation changes, or any other horizontally installed areas, a minimum 3/16” weep hole is required to be drilled into the bottom of the panel to allow for drainage of water. These weep holes shall be no more than 24” apart.
10. When installing corner posts and any other type of vertical/board and batten vinyl siding, where must you fasten in the nail flanges? How far apart should you fasten?
When installing any type of vertical vinyl siding, board and batten, or corners, nails must be installed no more than 12” apart, vertically. More importantly, the uppermost nail must be installed in the uppermost nail flange at the highest point of that nail flange. The reason for this is so that the panel never expands down, it can only expand up. This is only required when installing vertical vinyl products.
11. How many nails are required for 1 10’ piece of starter strip? What is the maximum distance the nails should be placed?
When fastening the starter strip, it is crucial to nail a maximum of 10” in the center of the nail flanges to allow for expansion and contractor. The reason the starter is nailed every 10” is because it is what locks in the first panel of siding and is the most crucial piece for the entire wall to stay intact. If the starter comes loose, the entire wall is going to come loose. Therefore, 12 nails are required for every 10’ piece of starter strip.
12. How far off the roofline should the j-channel be installed? What needs to be installed where the wall meets the bottom of the roofline?
J-channel needs to be installed at least ½” off of the roofline. In the case the j-channel is installed closer than ½”, the channel will warp from the heat of the asphalt shingles or metal roof panels. If the J-channel warps, it is nearly impossible to repair and the entire wall at the roofline usually needs to come down and completely be re-installed. When the bottom of the roof line meets the wall, a “pig-ear” aluminum field fabricated, color matched, diverter needs to be installed in order to direct the water from the channel into the gutter or away from the structure. This is crucial or water will get behind the siding at this area and into the home. This is the most common area for siding to leak.
13. When installing vertical siding on a wall or gable, is there anything specific required to make sure it is aesthetically proportionate? What is required to make sure it locks in on the ends?
When installing vertical siding on a wall, such as board and batten, it is important to make sure the left and right sides of the wall are aesthetically proportionate. The distance from any seam or batten strip on the left side should be the same as any seam or batten strip on the right side of the wall. In order to make sure the wall is proportionate, you must measure the length of the wall in inches and then divide by the reveal of that vertical panel.
For example, if a wall measures 14 feet, you must first convert that to inches by multiplying by 12. 15 x 12 = 180. After you get your footage converted to inches, in this case 180 inches, you must then divide by the width of the panel. Most vinyl board and batten panels come in 7” reveals. Therefore, 180” divided by 7” = 25.72 panels required. This means 25 full panels and a near 72/100 partial panel is required for that wall.
For the .72 panel, you divide that by two, and cut an additional panel such that the .36 panel on the left side is the same as the .36 panel on the right side. Then you install the full panels in the middle.
To make sure the panels on the ends lock in, you must either fur out the wall at these areas with a piece of fan fold or install utility trim to ensure it locks in at the ends.
In the case the wood rots, or gets soft, the repair process is a pain and extremely costly as it requires a true professional and is tedious to ensure a clean seamless repair.
6. What products, if any, are superior to wood but can give me the same look?
Luxury vinyl siding – Only vinyl options .046” panels or thicker, shake/shingle style, etc, are superior to wood. When it comes to maintenance, saving money, and having a better ROI (return on investment), vinyl is by far superior to wood siding. If the panels are thinner than .046”, wood would be a better option, but not by much. The only reason wood would be considered superior to vinyl is due to it being a “stronger” more impact resistant material. Regarding ROI and maintenance costs associated, vinyl is by far superior. Vinyl siding also offers long warranties to protect homeowners, can give a luxury look (if designed properly), and requires almost zero maintenance.
Composite siding, such as Everlast, and steel siding both, because they are essentially maintenance free, absorbs no moisture, requires no caulking, and is structurally stronger than wood. Both Everlast and Steel have a significant ROI compared to wood.
James Hardie is superior to wood, although not by much due to it still requiring the same maintenance protocols as wood and it being susceptible to absorbing moisture. Therefore, requiring caulking and painting, resulting in costly upkeep to ensure it doesn’t prematurely fail.
